Friday, June 5, 2009
Thursday, June 4, 2009
Tuesday, June 2, 2009
Standover height
Standover height
Standover height is the basic element of bike fit (see fig. 2). It is the distance from the
ground to the top of the bicycle’s frame at that point where your crotch is when straddling the bike. To check for correct standover height, straddle the bike while wearing the kind of shoes in which you’ll be riding, and bounce vigorously on your heels. If your crotch touches the frame, the bike is too big for you. Don’t even ride the bike around the block. A bike which you ride only on paved surfaces and never take off-road should give you a minimum standover height clearance of two inches (5 cm). A bike that you’ll ride on unpaved surfaces should give you a minimum of three inches (7.5 cm) of standover height clearance. And a bike that you’ll use off clearance.
Saddle position
fig. 3
Saddle position
In getting the most performance and comfort from your bicycle. If the saddle position is not
comfortable for you, see your dealer.
The saddle can be adjusted in three directions:
1. Up and down adjustment. To check for correct saddle height (fig. 3):
• sit on the saddle;
• place one heel on a pedal;
• rotate the crank until the pedal with your heel on it is in the down position and the crank
arm is parallel to the seat tube.
If your leg is not completely straight, your saddle height needs to be adjusted. If your hips must rock for the heel to reach the pedal, the saddle is too high. If your leg is bent at the knee with your heel on the pedal, the saddle is too low.
fig. 4
Once the saddle is at the correct height, make sure that the seatpost does not project from the frame beyond its “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Extension” mark (fig. 4).
If your bike has an interrupted seat tube, as is the case on some bikes with rear suspension, you
must also make sure that the seat post is far enough into the frame so that you can touch it
through the bottom of the interrupted seat tube with the tip of your finger without inserting your
finger beyond its first knuckle (see fig. 5).
fig. 5
Monday, June 1, 2009
Handlebar height and angle
Handlebar height and angle
Your bike is equipped either with a “threadless” stem, which clamps on to the outside of the steerer tube, or with a “quill”
stem, which clamps inside the steerer tube by way of an expanding binder bolt. If you aren’t absolutely sure which type
of stem your bike has, ask your dealer.
If your bike has a “threadless” stem, your dealer may be able to change handlebar height by moving height adjustment spacers from below the stem to above the stem, or vice versa. Otherwise, you’ll have to get a stem of different length or rise. Consult your dealer. Do not attempt to do this yourself, as it requires special knowledge.
If your bike has a “quill” stem, you can ask your dealer to adjust the handlebar height a bit by adjusting stem height. A quill stem has an etched or stamped mark on its shaft which designates the stem’s “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum extension”. This mark must not be visible above the headset.
Control position adjustments & Brake reach
Control position adjustments
The angle of the brake and shift control levers and their position on the handlebars can be changed. Ask your dealer to make the adjustments for you.
Brake reach
Many bikes have brake levers which can be adjusted for reach. If you have small hands or find it difficult to squeeze the brake levers, your dealer can either adjust the reach or fit shorter reach brake levers.







